This post is part of a travel series on Miranda’s Notebook detailing my holiday in Penzance, Cornwall. Throughout the week, I’ll be sharing all about where we stayed and what we did, as well as restaurant recommendations and a general guide to the area, so do keep checking back for updates!
We certainly did a lot of good eating whilst in Penzance, but there is one meal in particular that stands out as a highlight of our trip. I admit that The Shore will likely fail to please if you’re not a fan of fish, but for those of us who enjoy nothing better than a taste of the sea, The Shore is a must-visit on your Penzance list.
Bruce Rennie runs the restaurant, which is essentially a one-man operation; a labour of love that pays homage to the bountiful offerings of the Cornish coast. Having previously worked in the prestigious, two-star Michelin restaurant Martin Wishart in Edinburgh, Rennie has been long-settled in Cornwall and delights in producing a regularly changing small menu that showcases freshly caught, local fish and produce (a lot of which is foraged by Rennie himself).
We had a booking for supper on our first night in Cornwall, and ambled along the twisting streets from our B&B to the restaurant, enjoying the golden glow of the evening light.
On arriving at the restaurant, we were greeted warmly and shown to our table, where some thickly cut slices of homemade bread and a generous helping of Cornish butter appeared at our table, alongside the bottle of prosecco we ordered. The Shore has a fuss-free, pleasant interior, with painted white walls and a blue ceiling, light wooden furniture and silver light fixtures and wall displays reminiscent of coral. It reminded me of the beachside restaurants I grew up with on Long Island, and I instantly felt at home.
Sipping my fizz, I turned my mind to the menu and began the hugely enjoyable task of choosing what I’d like. I adore fish, so it was a real treat to sample the local catch, and I had a hard time deciding which dishes to choose. Did I fancy pollack or brill? Red mullet or hake? Or possibly a spider crab broth?
In the end, I settled on Cured Pollack with Apple, Dill and Wasabi, and Mum chose Brill with Cafe de Paris Hollandaise and Asparagus.
Both dishes were incredible: everything on my plate was fresh and vibrant, the delicacy of the fish balanced perfectly against the sweet crispness of the apple and slight heat of wasabi. My mum pronounced her hollandaise sauce utterly blissful alongside expertly cooked brill.
For our mains, I’d chosen Sole (a favourite of mine) with Artichoke and Asparagus Nage, Orzo Pasta and Tarragon. Mum went for Cod with Potato Terrine, Cockles, Celeriac and Sprouting Broccoli.
My choice tasted like spring on a plate: the tarragon in the broth brought a wonderful zest to the dish, and the vegetables were cooked just right. I loved the mix of radish, asparagus, carrot and artichoke, and of course the fish was beautifully done, standing up well to the heady mix of flavours. I tried a little of my Mum’s plate too, and agreed it was superb.
By this point, it was getting dark, and the candles flickered in their shell-like vessels as we took a little break before choosing dessert. It probably won’t come as a surprise to you that I can rarely resist a chocolate-based pudding, so eventually I put in my request for Valrhona Manjari Chocolate Delice with Passion Fruit Sorbet and Honeycomb. Mum was less predictable with her order of Banana Parfait with Hazelnuts, Lime and and Coffee.
My dessert was a rich, deep, velvet chocolate that was extremely satisfying, and I loved my Mum’s playful concoction too, which was just as delicious as it was pretty.
As we were finishing our meal, the Chef himself came out to greet us and chat about his menu choices and love for Cornwall. It’s clear that Bruce Rennie is extremely passionate about what he does, and puts a great deal of thought and care into every detail of his restaurant, including the exact shade of blue paint, which he told us took him months to decide. His strong vision and desire for the very best shines through his cooking, and I can’t wait for whenever we can return to Penzance and to The Shore. As my Mum said, the food alone is worth the train journey from London!
+++ The Shore restaurant is open for lunch Friday-Saturday, 12.30-13.30 and for supper Tuesday-Saturday, 18.30 – 21.00. It’s strongly advised that you make a booking and give notice of any dietary requirements or allergies in advance of your meal. +++
Note: our meal at The Shore was complimentary for the purpose of review. All opinions expressed are my own.