I’m so pleased finally to be sharing the rest of my trip to Cornwall back in October. Life got so crazy in the late autumn, that I wasn’t able to write about my St Ives experience, which was a shame as I had such a fun time and thoroughly enjoyed my first trip to that part of Cornwall.
I’ll be publishing posts about exploring St Ives, particularly our visits to the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden and Leach Pottery, but for today I’ll start at the beginning with our arrival at The Gannet Inn, a charming boutique hotel in Carbis Bay, just a few minutes from St Ives. We’d hired a taxi from the Bedruthan Hotel in Newquay, and the drive to Carbis Bay took about an hour, which I didn’t mind a bit, as there was such attractive scenery to admire along the way.
I must say, that if you’re planning a visit to St Ives, then I very much recommend staying in Carbis Bay, rather than St Ives itself. Although there was much I appreciated about St Ives, I found its extremely touristy town centre rather disappointing. Many of the streets were lined with charming cottages, but the impression was rather spoilt by the placards on every door with engraved website links to book a stay. I started to wonder if anyone actually lived in St Ives! Even though it was off-season, the town was crowded, and it was a relief to get back to the tranquility and beauty of Carbis Bay. The Gannet Inn was very close to the sweet little train station, where it was easy to catch the train to St Ives – only a 3 minute trip, but one of the most beautiful train journeys I’ve taken, as the tracks hug the cliffs, and you get the most beautiful views of the coast and St Ives as you chug into the station.
The Gannet Inn
The Gannet Inn is sister hotel to the larger and grander Carbis Bay Hotel, in which we also stayed (I’ll be writing about that soon too). Although not situated directly on the bay, The Gannet still offered lovely seaside views, and the gorgeous, quiet little beach was only a short walk away. I liked the cosy, comfy rooms, which were decorated in the style of a country home, which instantly made me feel welcome.
As soon as we arrived, we were greeted by the very friendly and helpful receptionist, who had our bags whisked to our room and provided us with very useful information about train times to St Ives, as well as a map to the area and tips about what to see and do.
Sea View Room
Before having lunch, we went up to our room (called The Oyster Catcher) to unpack, re-apply lipstick and brush our hair. Our double-bed room was on the top floor, accessed by a winding stair case, and I was charmed by the attractive furniture, neutral decor and view of the sea over the rooftops (where a glimpse of the lighthouse that inspired Virginia Woolf’s famous novel, To The Lighthouse, was clearly visible).
The freshly baked biscuits were a nice touch alongside the plentiful supply of tea, coffee and water, and both Mum and I were thrilled by the large bathroom, with a big bath and shower.
The room was pristine and very comfortable, and I especially appreciated the large cupboard space, equipped with iron and ironing-board so I could press a few of my dresses before hanging them up.
Scallops for Lunch
By this time, we were feeling distinctly peckish, so decided to have lunch in the hotel restaurant before heading into St Ives for an afternoon of exploring.
The food at the Gannet Inn was really outstanding – some of the best from the entire trip. Our lunch of plump, fresh scallops, toast and avocado salad and cool, crisp wine was perfection. Feeling ready for adventure after our meal, we set off to catch the train for St Ives.
Despite its high tourist foot fall, St Ives manages to retain a great deal of character and appeal. We happily wandered along the narrow, twisting lanes, flagged by brightly coloured doorways and attractive shops.
I, of course, nosed out the local bookshop in record time and couldn’t resist choosing a couple from its well curated selection: The Illustrated Letters of Virginia Woolf and Virginia Woolf and Vanessa Bell: a Childhood in St Ives. I was eager to learn more of the famous sisters’ connection to Cornwall, and I even managed to find the house they lived in as children when they visited St Ives for summer holidays.
I also did a bit of shopping for family and friends, picking up postcards and tea-towels from Poppy Treffry, as well as magazines in the beautiful fashion and homeware shop, Academy & Co.
The Best Apple Pie I’ve Ever Had
After our afternoon in St Ives, we returned to The Gannet Inn in time for supper. Heading down to the large, attractive restaurant, we were ushered to a table and given menus. All the walking had rekindled our appetities, so we decided to share a bottle of the house red wine, with a baked camembert cheese and toast as a starter, and roasted venison Wellington for our mains.
There are few delights as simple, but as tasty as baked cheese. The camembert was studded with garlic cloves and rosemary and tasted heavenly spread over our toast. I’ve since replicated this easy starter several times at home – it’s a Friday night fail-safe!
Our main dish was delicious as well, and an excellent twist on the usual Beef Wellington. The venison was very well cooked – perfectly pink in the middle – and served in a tasty jus with mushrooms and broccoli.
Finally, dessert: we’d both chosen apple pie with custard and calvados. Oh my! It was amazing. I’ve had plenty of good apple pie in my time, but none as magnificent as this. It was a real English – rather than American – pie, without any cinnamon, but the pastry was crisp and light, the apples perfectly sweet, and the combination of custard and apple liqueur absolutely inspired. I have yet to attempt my own version of this dessert, but I definitely want to soon!
You’d think after that supper, we’d barely manage more than a sip of tea the next morning, but the early morning spread was so tempting when we went downstairs after a good night’s sleep, that somehow I found myself managing a plateful of pancakes, and Mum went for a smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel.
As we’d come to expect from the food at The Gannet Inn, everything was delicious and set us up very well for another day spent exploring and enjoying beachside walks. I look forward to sharing the rest of my St Ives recommendations very soon!
The Gannet Inn, Cornwall – www.gannetstives.co.uk
Room rates at The Gannet Inn are from £160 per night. This is based on double occupancy and includes breakfast, taxes and fees. To book, please visit www.gannetstives.co.uk, email email@example.com, or call 01736 795 651.
Note: My stay at The Gannet Inn was complimentary for the purpose of review. All opinions expressed are my own.